From Salford to Salvador
A few years ago, I set off on what would become one of the longest and most unforgettable trips of my life across South America. A journey that spanned six countries, winding through Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil.
It began simply enough: a short drive to Manchester Airport, led me onto a flight to Valencia, and then on to the coastal town of Benicassim for a friend’s wedding. From Spanish train rides to Madrid’s bustling streets and a one-night stop in Lisbon, the trip’s warm-up was complete. It was time to cross the Atlantic.
After a quick stop in Miami for a few nights, the real adventure began as I flew into Colombia’s capital, Bogotá.
Colombia: Colours, Coffee & Colonial Streets
From the colourful streets of La Candelaria in Bogotá, I hopped across Colombia. Enjoying the Caribbean coast in Santa Marta and Cartagena, and down to the creative buzz of Medellín, ending in the coffee country of Salento.
Colombia had my heart right from the get-go. I was taken in by the people, the culture, the coffee and the food. Even on a backpacker budget, Colombia was accessible. I enjoyed food tours in Bogotá, museums in Medellin, coffee tours and insane hikes in Salento and boat trips in Santa Marta. The heat in Cartagena meant that I didn’t enjoy much more than the local beers and beaches. But I’m not complaining.
Each bus ride was an adventure of its own – some smooth, some long and broken down on the roadside, but all part of the story. And Medellin remains one of my favourite cities of all time. In fact, if anyone ever asks me to name my favourite country, the answer is usually “Colombia.” Never have I explored such a diverse, vibrant and welcoming country. The urge to return is overwhelming.
Peru: Andes, Adventures & the Ancient Wonders of South America
From Bogotá, I pushed south into Peru. Aside from my flight into Bogotá and out of Salvador, this was my only other flight throughout the whole trip. Lima was my introduction, to Peru. A bustling city and the home of Paddington Bear, Lima didn’t grip me like other parts of Peru did. But it was still an enjoyable stay. From Lima, I headed to the whacky desert oasis of Huacachina to try out sand boarding, before the real magic came.
Taking overnight buses through deserts and mountains until finally reaching Cusco – the gateway to Machu Picchu, I felt like I was in a dream. Cusco had me feeling light-headed from the altitude, but a visit to San Pedro Central Market for some lomo saltado – whilst narrowly avoiding the deep fried guinea pig – was just the ticket. I loved it here. And I was about to fall in love with Peru even more deeply, as my trip to Machu Picchu began.
After a bumpy bus ride to Santa Teresa, with a stop off for a hike along some of the Inca trail and a sip on some snake wine – snake included – we checked into our lively hostel. A few games of beer pong rolled into an evening in the local hot springs, followed by another early start for our 16 mile trek to one of the New Seven Wonders of the World. Our journey and visit to Machu Picchu is something I will forever hold dearly in my heart. The scenery was breathtaking. The trek was physically demanding. But the views at the top of Machu Picchu were out of this world.
The next few days were a blur. Spent white water rafting along Urubamba River and zip lining through the canyons, this was a trip of a lifetime nestled within the trip of a lifetime.
Puno and Lake Titicaca followed, offering some much-needed peace, and high-altitude adventures. Next, time for Bolivia.
Bolivia: Salt, Cities & High-Altitude Living
Bolivia was raw and breathtaking. From Copacabana and La Paz to the colonial charm of Sucre, each city had its own energy. But nothing compared to the Uyuni Salt Flats – three days of otherworldly landscapes, endless horizons, and nights under skies so full of stars they didn’t seem real.
Bolivia was the biggest surprise for me. I wasn’t prepared for how much I was going to love it. Feeling breathless at altitude became the norm, as did having the driest skin I’ve ever had the pleasure of. But the people and the culture drew me in.
Copacabana was my first experience of Bolivia. Most travellers entering Bolivia from Lake Titicaca will land here, and after spending the night in an eco-hostel, it was onto La Paz. The administrative capital of Bolivia, this city was interesting. It left a lasting impression – though not necessarily a positive one. But I didn’t dislike the place either. And the 3,500m above sea level location quite literally had me gasping for air.
Cochabamba and Sucre are where I spent a few days relaxing and taking in the sights. The former is also where I visited the Cristo de la Concordia in Cochabamba, which is surprisingly larger than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. And Sucre is where I discovered high-altitude Bolivian red wine. An undisputed contender against its neighbours in Argentina.
But the highlight of Bolivia? Well, it has to be the Salar de Uyuni. I can’t quite put into words the impact this trip had on me. The three days spent in the Bolivian Salt Flats were some of the best of the whole trip. I struggle to put it into words.
If you’re ever planning a trip to Bolivia, or South America generally, it would be criminal to miss this place.
Argentina: Wine, Waterfalls & Wide Open Roads
Crossing the border into Argentina felt like shifting gears again. From the northern town of Salta to the vineyards of Mendoza, I travelled on long-distance buses through the country’s varied landscapes. Argentina didn’t feel like anywhere else I’d been in South America.
After a long and interesting crossing into the country, the town of Salta was my first experience of Argentinian culture. And I loved it. Nights spent drinking copious amounts of Malbec – my favourite red wine, and days exploring its clean and cosmopolitan architecture, Argentina felt like a world away from the other countries I’d been to in South America so far.
I spent four nights in Mendoza but honestly could have stayed for eight. Wine tours by bicycle, my first experience of an Argentinian football match, and lots of very good food. I knew I was going to like Argentina. Travelling south, sleepy colonial towns like Córdoba and Santa Fe offered the perfect chance to slow down. And it was then onto a city I’d been looking forward to for months.
With three nights booked into a hostel in the Monserrat neighbourhood of Buenos Aires, I knew the days that followed would be busy. And they were. So much so, I ended up extending for another three nights, because I just couldn’t fit in everything that this city had to offer. A tour of La Boca, an afternoon in the Jardin Japones and the most magical library I’ve ever had the pleasure of experiencing. But the highlight? Stumbling across a local market packing up its stalls to make way for a Sunday evening of locals dancing the Argentinian Tango. I really felt like I’d been treated.
A small boat trip to Tigre gave me a few very rainy nights in the local nature. And before I knew it, it was time to embark on the journey to Uruguay.
Uruguay: Coastlines & Calm
From Buenos Aires, I ferried across to Uruguay. Here the pace slowed dramatically. Days were spent in seaside towns like Punta del Diablo, La Paloma, and Cabo Polonio, each more relaxed than the last. Cabo Polonio especially stood out, a tiny off-grid community nestled among dunes and wild beaches.
Though with 100% honesty, Uruguay didn’t grip me like other locations had in South America. It’s expensive, and very cosmopolitan. Almost to a fault.
Uruguay’s natural beauty is undeniable. But ‘cosmopolitan’ cities and towns is what I was trying to avoid. I’m so used to those in Europe. I wanted rugged, and Uruguay isn’t that. It’s clean, its transport system works. The people are really friendly. And I think my impression of Uruguay was tinted from months of awful buses and backpacker living.
Uruguay was almost too well-equipped, and made me feel like I was no longer backpacking. And I feel like a twat even writing that.
After a few days spent exploring its capital, Montevideo and getting hooked on mate, it was time to move up the coast to Punta del Este and La Paloma. It’s also worth mentioning that I was there in the off-season. Backpackers were nowhere to be found, and many of the locals had relocated or spent time away for the winter. It was spring, and it felt like the place was just waking back up. Eating out was extortionate compared to what I’d known in the previous countries I’d been to. Even Argentina was cheap due to an ongoing economic crisis. So Uruguay felt like a punch in the gut.
The most memorable experience I had in Uruguay was two nights in Cabo Polonio. The off-grid community was only accessible by a 30-minute 4×4 ride through sand dunes. Weed is legal in Uruguay, and the smell of it hits you when you arrive, as well as the stench of sea lions. But don’t let either of those things put you off. Cabo Polonio is the quirkiest place I’ve ever visited. Its single shop is adorable, and there are even a couple of bars and restaurants to hit up with your hostel mates. A couple of nights here led on to some relaxing days in Punta del Diablo. Don’t let the name put you off.
Finally, it was time for a headfirst dive into Brazilian life.
Brazil: The South American Grand Finale
The final leg of my journey unfolded in Brazil, a country that seemed to contain an entire continent’s worth of experiences on its own. The culture, the weather and the food reminded me mostly of Colombia, but that does a disservice to everything that Brazil has to offer on its own.
From the island life of Florianópolis to the wild rhythms of Rio de Janeiro, I moved steadily north. Jungle beaches in Itacaré, the historic streets of Salvador, and the energy of São Paulo helped to mark the last chapter in South America.
Porto Alegre was my introduction into Brazil, and my gateway to Foz de Iguaçu. I actually spent the first day of this trip crossing the border back into Argentina to experience the Iguazu Falls from the Argentinian side, before spending the following day on the Brazilian side. And I’d highly recommend doing the same. The differing experiences from one country to the next are almost unbelievable. Another “not to be missed” experience.
Florianopolis got me hooked on açai bowls and Brazilian beer. The latter of which led me to getting a travel tattoo. Yes, I am now one of those people. I loved it here. It felt like I’d transported myself onto a Caribbean island. The beaches and the people were so welcoming.
São Paulo was next, and this was quite different to life in Florianopolis. Loud, noisy and a far cry from the beaches I’d just been to. A gritty city, I didn’t spend a huge amount of time here. The size of the place was overwhelming, but I enjoyed a visit to the Beco de Batman and even managed to catch a drink and a pizza with a friend from England. Not bad for saying we were 9,500km away from home.
Paraty was next, and after taking in its colonial charm and enjoying a boozy boat trip, it was time for a week in Rio de Janeiro. I didn’t really know what to expect from one of the most visited cities in the Southern Hemisphere, but the vibe I got surprised me. Rio de Janeiro is undoubtedly a lively place. But the beautiful beaches and gorgeous architecture were for me, overwhelmed with the fear I felt walking around the city. It could have been where I was staying. It could have been some travel exhaustion, but I never really felt safe here. I still enjoyed my time, but I was looking forward to leaving once my week was up.
Vitória was a quick stop leading onto Porto Seguro. The money was starting to run out, and so my final few weeks in Brazil were extremely chilled. I spent a lot of time relaxing, drinking coconut water straight out of the coconut, and taking advantage of Brazil’s incredibly delicious fruit. I have never seen passion fruit so huge.
Itacaré and Gamboa were the locations where I really found the beauty in Brazil’s coastline. Breakfasts surrounded by monkeys, days spent lounging in hammocks, and evenings spent eating the catch of the day. Brazil’s coastline is so incredibly diverse and stunning.
Salvador marked the final stop in South America, and I’m sad I only spent 36 hours here. I really loved the small part of Salvador that I got to see. But my word, I’ve never felt humidity like it.
After nearly six months, more than 20,000 kilometre across the Atlantic and around South America by plane, (largely) bus, and boat, and countless hostels, cities, and conversations, I finally boarded my flight home. From Salvador, to Lisbon for 48 hours, and finally landing back in Manchester just a few weeks before Christmas.
What 6 Months in South America Taught Me
Travel isn’t always smooth. Sometimes buses break down, journeys stretch into 25 hours, and plans change at the last minute. But that’s part of the adventure. Looking back, it wasn’t just the destinations that made this trip so special, it was the constant motion of going from one place to the next and discovering what waited there for me.
This was the year I truly travelled north, east, south, and west, and I’d do every mile again in a heartbeat.